- 1). Line up the raw edges of the fabric, if you are joining a seam to make a garment. If you are finishing a raw edge on thermal weave fabric, for example if you are making a light blanket, jump ahead and position the fabric under the presser foot.
- 2). Place the raw edge of the fabric under the presser foot of a zigzag or over-lock sewing machine with the ball point needle installed. Line the fabric up with the desired seam allowance's marks on the throat plate; 5/8 inch is the standard seam allowance for most patterns. Lower the presser foot. If you are using a zigzag machine, set the stitch length on short and the width on wide.
- 3). Sew slowly, and be careful to avoid pulling on the fabric or holding it back when the machine's feed dogs are pulling it under the presser foot. Pulling on stretchy fabric when sewing will give the seam a scalloped, frilly edge that does not look right on thermal weave fabric.
- 4). Cut off the excess fabric that sticks out between the seam and the raw edge, using scissors. Do this only if you are using a zigzag machine, and be careful not to cut the stitches. If you are using an over-lock machine, also called a serger, the machine will cut off the excess fabric.
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