Home & Garden Cleaning & Laundry

DIY Cistern

    • 1
      It is important to have a downspout and gutter system close to the area you want to place the cistern.Jupiterimages/Photos.com/Getty Images

      Choose the location for your new cistern. The further it is from the area where you will be using it, the more plumbing and the stronger pumps you will need to transport the stored water through the plumbing. Ideally the location will be closest to the downspout on your home or other building close to where you are building the cistern. If no gutter system exists, that will severely limit the amount of rainwater you can collect. Install a gutter system on the closest structure to where you want to place the cistern.

    • 2). Remove the portion of the downspout piping from the building where you will be placing the cistern. The length you remove depends on the height of the model cistern you buy. Typically, 3 or 4 feet above the height of the above ground cistern would be good.

    • 3). Attach the rainwater filter screen to the section of downspout that remains using either screws that come with the cistern kit or sealant. Some cistern kits will contain two parts to the filter screen: the mesh stainless steel strainer and the mosquito guard. The filter screen keeps leaves, bird droppings and other solid particulates from accumulating in your cistern water supply. The mosquito guard prevents female mosquitoes from gaining access to your water supply and propagating.

    • 4). Connect a "T" joint pipe under the filter screen. The bottom part of the "T" will lead to the intake hole on the tank and the other end will lead downward and feed a lower pipe called the "First Flush Converter."

    • 5). Connect the bottom assembly of the "First Flush Converter" to the bottom of the pipe. The bottom assembly is made up of a "floater" -- or plastic ball that rises as the water level rises in the "First Flush Converter" -- a screen filter at the bottom of the pipe and a cap to hold it all into place. The contaminated water that makes it through the first filter screen collects in this converter where the contaminants sink to the bottom of the pipe and drain out through the bottom filter. The cleaner water then is allowed to flow over to the other part of the "T" connection and fill the cistern tank.

    • 6). Connect a 4-foot-long section of PVC pipe (which should be a part of your kit) to the other section of your "T" joint. This will be the pipe where the cleaner water will flow through to get to the tank. Attach the elbow joint and another PVC pipe to the end of this section to direct the water into the intake of the cistern.

    • 7). Use PVC cement on all connecting sections of pipe and some silicone sealant to prevent leaking water. You especially want to ensure a tight seal between the intake hole on the cistern and the PVC pipe leading into the tank. This will prevent leaks and also aid in preventing mosquitoes from finding their way into your cistern.

    • 8). Test the cistern pressure. Most cistern kits will have a valve at the bottom of the tank. These valves can operate at a decent level of water pressure when the tank is full. Turn the valve after you experience a heavy rain and note the pressure of the escaping water. It is not recommended that this water be used for human consumption unless it is boiled first to kill microbial contaminants that cannot be filtered out otherwise. Some of these valves come with attachments to add hoses, water pressure machines and more. Check this out before you buy the kit.

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