Embroidery today has changed a lot since its inception. However, the basic methods are still pretty much unchanged.
Most haberdashery enthusiasts use the same set of tools, as below :

Scissors, tape measure, pins and needles, and embroidery frame, with an iron and a sewing machine, are all you need to get started on your embroidery project.

Preparation of fabric

If the finished embroidery is to be washed, make sure that the fabric is pre-shrunk or wash it before embarking on the project.
Leave at least 5cm (2 in) extra fabric around the design to allow room for adjustments, framing or mounting.

Positioning the design

The tracing of the design can often be positioned by eye, but for more precise placing, find the centre of the tracing by folding it into quarters and mark this point, do the same with the fabric and align both marks.

Direct tracing

Outline the original drawing or tracing in black felt tip pen. For fine or transparent fabrics, tape the tracing to your work surface then tape the fabric in position on top. Trace the design with your chosen marker.

Dressmakers' carbon
Tape the fabric to the work surface. Tape the traced design in position on top with dressmakers' carbon, coloured side down, between the fabric and the tracing. Using a ballpoint pen, draw over the marked lines, pressing firmly.

Pricking and pouncing

Trace the design and turn it over to the reverse side. Place this on a soft surface, such as a piece of felt or a towel. Use a medium-sized needle to prick holes close together along the marked lines. Position the tracing right side up on the fabric and tape it in place.

Make a pouncing pad by rolling up a small rectangle of felt, holding it together by tying a length of cotton round it. Dip the end of this into a powder made from crushed dressmakers' chalk and charcoal. Rub the powder through the holes in the tracing paper with a circular movement. Remove the tracing and go over the dotted line lightly with your chosen marker.

Tracing and tacking

Trace the design and pin the tracing in position on the fabric. Begin the tacking with a knot and a back stitch and work small running stitches along the lines through both the paper and the fabric. Fasten off securely. Gently tear away tue tracing paper to leave the tacked line, which may either be covered with the embroidery or removed as the work progresses.

Frames

For the majority of embroidery techniques, the best results are achieved if the work is mounted in a frame. It will remain clean and un-crumpled, and the tension of the stitches will be even. Whichever type of frame is used, the fabric should first be ironed, backed if necessary and the design marked ready for stitching. Care should be taken that the fabric is not distorted in any way but stretched with the warp and weft running at right angles to one another.

Ring (or hoop frames) in wood or metal are available in
various sizes and are suitable for small embroidery projects provided the whole of the design will fit within the bounds of the frame. It is not advisable to relocate the frame to another part of the design, as this may cause damage to previously worked areas.

Stretcher frames consist of four lengths of soft wood, with mitred corners, to which the embroidery is fastened with drawing pins.

Tapestry (or slate) frames come in various types. The most satisfactory are those made up of two rollers each with a tape attached to which the canvas or embroidery background fabric is stitched. The rollers are held apart with side battens which have split pins or pegs to adjust the size.

Ring (or hoop) frames
The  inner ring may be bound diagonally with bias binding to protect fine or delicate fabrics. Adjust the screw of the outer ring so that it fits loosely over the inner ring. Place the fabric over the inner ring. Press the outer ring down over the fabric and the inner ring making sure the fabric is straight, taut and the area to be worked is in the centre of the ring. Tighten the screw to secure the fabric.

Stretcher frames
Mark the centre of each side of the frame and make corresponding marks on the fabric. Then, starting at the top edge, align the centre marks and secure with a drawing pin. Continue pinning at 12-mm (1/2-in)intervals, working towards the sides. Turn the frame and fasten the bottom edge in a similar way, stretching the fabric taut.

To complete the other two sides, pin the centre points and continue towards the ends, pinning first one side and then the other to tension the fabric evenly.

Tapestry (or slate) frames
Mark the centre point of the fabric and fold a 12-mm (½-in) hem to the wrong side along the top and bottom edges, and a 2.5cm (1 in) hem along the sides. Cut two lengths of string at least 45cm (18 in) longer than the side battens.

Place these inside the side hems and machine stitch near the edge to form a casing over each string.
With wrong sides together, align the centre points on the top and bottom edges with the centre markings on the roller tape. Pin the fabric along the tape and overcast them together with strong, doubled thread, starting in the centre and working towards the edges.
Insert the side battens and secure them with the split pins or pegs so that the fabric is taut. Tie the ends of the strings to the rollers. Lace the sides of the fabric to the side battens using string, threaded in a large-eyed needle. Pull the string to tighten the fabric and tie the ends around the batten ends.

All of tghe equipment you need to get started on your embroidery project will be available from your local haberdashery store, or if you  haven;t got on ethere are plenty of online haberdashery shops.