- 1). Cut any caulking along the edges of the brick molding, using the utility knife .This will help you get the bad section out in one piece.
- 2). Place the flat end of the flat bar next to the outer edge of the brick molding. The flat bar should rest against the molding and the brick.
- 3). Strike the curved end of the flat bar with the hammer so that the flat bar slides under the brick molding. Pry up with the flat bar to pull it loose. Continue this pattern all the way across the length of the brick molding you are replacing until you can completely pry it up.
- 4). Measure the old section you removed, or the space left by the old section, with a tape measure, and mark the same measurements on a new piece of brick molding. Mark the same miter cuts on the new board with a pencil if you removed a section of brick molding from a door or window. Lay the old section on top of the new section to trace the exact same angle onto the new piece of brick molding.
- 5). Set the miter saw to a 45-degree angle on the left side of the zero-degree mark. Use this setting to make a miter cut for a section of brick molding to be installed on the left side of a window or door. Lay the section of brick molding with the 2-inch side facing up. Align the miter pencil mark with the blade, and make sure that the excess length of the board is extended out to the left of the saw. Pull the miter saw handle down to make the cut. Reverse this step for a right miter cut.
- 6). Attach the finish nail gun to the compressor, plug the compressor in and allow it to gain pressure to at least 80 lbs. The pressure will show on the pressure gauge.
- 7). Hold the new brick molding in place and secure it with the finish nail gun. Shoot nails through the face of the brick molding closest to the door or window. Look at the old piece you removed to see where the nails were placed.
- 8). Caulk both edges with painter's caulking and a caulking gun and allow it to dry.
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