Travel & Places United States

How to Traverse Maryland's Paw Paw Tunnel

    • 1). Use Washington, D.C., as a starting point. The drive will encompass two states. With a map of both Virginia and West Virginia, locate Virginia State Highway 7 off the Washington Beltway (I-495). Take 7, west toward Leesburg. Locate Paw Paw, West Virginia on the map and follow the route between Leesburg and Paw Paw. Coincidentally, West Virginia has two towns named Paw Paw; one in the western and one in the eastern part of the state. Select the eastern town, located on the Potomac River.

    • 2). Stop in Paw Paw for lunch. The town is very small and the choices are minimal. Packaged sandwiches are an option at the only gas station, while next door, at Grandma's, a home-cooked cheeseburger and a drink are very affordable. The décor is downright homey.

    • 3). Cross the Potomac River into Maryland and follow the brown directional signs to the C&O Canal. A quick turn drops into a parking area and a campground. There is a fee to camp. The towpath is the rise at the north side of the parking lot.

    • 4). Take a right after reaching the towpath and travel southward toward the tunnel. Notice the dry canal bed to the left. Long since overgrown by trees, it is now a playground for squirrels, deer and raccoons.

    • 5). See the tunnel come into view and notice that in the summer and during weekends, a park ranger will be at the entrance lecturing about the tunnel's history. This will be the beginning of approximately a 45-minute tour. If you decide to take the tour through the tunnel, know that it can be at a painfully slow. Opting to get ahead of the tour will allow you to set their own pace, and because of the tunnel’s amazing acoustics, you can still hear the narrative of the ranger.

    • 6). Enter the tunnel and notice that, contrary to any myth, it’s not completely dark and that the south opening is visible in the distance. However, it is dark enough to require a flashlight.

    • 7). Depend on the white railing that divides the canal from the towpath. Don’t be afraid to use it for support. It’s your only protection between safety and the drink.

    • 8). Beware that approximately three-fourths of the way through the tunnel, the narrow, once level towpath, is now uneven and includes potholes. The natural leakage from the tunnel walls will fill the potholes up and make for treacherous trekking. Be careful.

    • 9). Exit the tunnel and continue on a wooden deck another half mile. The C&O then returns to its more familiar state. Return to the south entrance and climb the stone stairs up around the entrance and across to the other side, offering yet another perspective.

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