Early Damask

• Damask was named for the area it came from, Damascus, Syria, which was a mecca for trade and manufacturing. The pattern originated during the early Middle Ages and is a particular style of fabric weaving that is reversible. Many different fabrics were used in these patterned productions: wool, silk, linen and cotton.
  
  

15th Century and mid-16th Century Damask

• A damask pattern woven in linen is used to upholster a chair.Hemera Technologies/PhotoObjects.net/Getty Images
  
  To create fabric patterns during the 15th and 16th centuries, one of the five basic weaving techniques of the Byzantine and Islamic cultures was used. They were damask, lampas, tabby, twill and tapestry. Most damasks were created and operated by two people on a hand loom called a "drawloom." A drawloom has a "figure harness" used to control each warp thread individually, with one warp yarn and one weft yarn. The weaver requires a partner known as a "drawboy" to control the figure harness. Patterns were created using one color of thread during this period.
  
  

Categories

• During the 15th century, and through the mid-16th century in particular, damask was broken up into two separate categories. In England, damask took would be categorized as either being "diaper" or "damask," depending on the difficulty of the pattern. If the patterns were small and repetitive or if the patterns consisted of very basic geometrical patterns, they were known as "diaper." More difficult patterns that were longer and more detailed were known as "damask." Damask was typically found in Western Europe, woven of fine white linen for tablecloths and napkins.
  
  

17th Century Through 18th Century Damask

• Antique 17th century and 18th century damask was frequently woven of silk in deeper and richer colors, straying from the plain, single color patterns created in the Middle Ages. Also during this time, damask fabric became popular in women's clothing as petticoats and skirts or dresses. Mass-produced damask is available in most linen stores today, but it is possible to purchase a piece of history by locating a dealer online who sells authentic antique damask. Always come well researched when approaching a seller and ask for proof of the time period in some form of documentation if possible.