What's a Delam?

One of the most common problems for wakeboards and waterskis is the delaminating of the outside edges. Pro shops and ski repair centers will often refer to this simply as a “delam.” A lot of riders will see this damage and decide it’s time for new equipment. However, if the extent of the damage is only minor, it can be easy to repair. Granted, if the board or ski has been delaminated for quite some time then it could be waterlogged and splitting apart.

In that case, it may very well be ready for the trash. But if you want to save a few bucks and take a shot at repairing the damage yourself, you’ll need a few things first.   

What You’ll Need:

Epoxy Resin
C Clamps
Dry Cloth or Steel Wool
100 Grit Sand Paper
Putty Knife
Tooth Pick
Stiff Paint Brush
1" x 3" wood pieces

Let Your Wakeboard or Ski Dry Out

First, let your wakeboard or waterski dry out completely in a room with little to no humidity. Even though it may appear dry from the outside, delaminated boards allow water to seep through to the core construction and make it water logged. If your board feels extra heavy, try standing it vertically to allow all water to drain out. Once it feels completely dry, you are ready to begin the repair.

Prepare the Area

Every delam is different. Some spread outward along the edges and some spread back toward the center of the board. In either case, inspect the damage closely for cracking and splintering. Clean the area thoroughly with a dry cloth or steel wool, and if necessary, sand any splintered or jagged edges smooth with your 100 grit sandpaper. Finally, dust off any extra dust particles with your cloth or by blowing on the area.

Mix and Apply the Epoxy

Now you are ready for the epoxy. There are dozens of epoxy resin companies and they each have their own mixing instructions. Just follow the instructions that came with your selected epoxy and you’ll be golden. Once you have have mixed your epoxy apply it to the affected areas first with a putty knife. You can use a tooth pick to work the epoxy into the smaller cracks and crevices. Ultimately, you want the epoxy to fill all the gaps and have a nice smooth coverage.

Before you apply the clamp, take two 1 x 3 wood pieces cut to the length of the damage and gently place them on the outside edges of the delaminated area. This will allow the pressure from the clamps to spread evenly across the problem area. I find it is usually best to place two clamps just to the left and right of the outside edges of the planks. If you have someone available to help, you can both screw down the clamps at the same time making sure to put equal pressure on both.

Be prepared with a cloth to wipe out all of the excess resin that just seeped out from the clamping. Once you have wiped all the excess, you can use a stiff paint brush to smooth and feather the resin before curing.

Once again, curing time will vary depending on the maker of your resin, but 48 to 72 hours is usually a safe bet. Slowly remove the clamps wood pieces and inspect the area. Most resins will dry to an amber color, so it won’t be beautiful, but at this point your board is repaired and ready for the water once again. If you notice brush marks or clumpy areas you can wet sand and buff the area to a high polish.

This will, at the very least, make your new epoxy match the gloss for the rest of the board.