Preparation

• 1
  A stopcock or main water supply tap.pipe 'n valve image by stoffies from Fotolia.com
  
  Before trying any plumbing methods it is important that you locate and turn off the main water supply to the toilet by turning the stopcock counterclockwise.
  
  
• 2). If you cannot find the stopcock, you may close the storage tank cold feed valve (located next to your water storage tank) using a screwdriver.
  
  
• 3). Run all the cold taps and flush the toilet until the toilet cistern is completely drained.
  
  

Removing Blockages

• 1). Blockages that cannot be cleared by using a drain blaster solution may need the help of a plunger.
  
  
• 2). Insert the plunger into the toilet, ensuring that the rubber end is fully seated at the bottom of the toilet bowl. Push the plunger downward using pressure and then lift it gently. Repeat this motion until water begins to drain away.
  
  
• 3). If the plunger doesn't fix the problem, try using a toilet auger, a long-handled length of cable that can be purchased in different lengths from a hardware store. A 3-foot auger is ideal for residential use.
  
  
• 4). Insert the auger into the bottom of the toilet bowl slowly. Turn the auger handle while applying pressure downwards. This extends the auger's inner cable. Once fully extended, water should begin to drain out from the toilet bowl.
  
  
• 5). Slowly retract the auger cable while turning the handle; this will continue breaking up any material that was originally causing the blockage.
  
  

Fixing a Leak

• 1). Find out where the leak is coming from by checking all connections and seals using tissue paper to blot for dampness. Common places to check are the connections on the base of a toilet, base of the cistern, top of the cistern and the water supply pipe.
  
  
• 2). If the leak is coming from the base of the toilet, give the toilet pan a wiggle to see if it is loose. If it needs to be tightened, use a screwdriver on the screws that are located on either side of the toilet base.
  
  
• 3). Wiggle the toilet pan again to test that there is no more movement and that it is flush.
  
  
• 4). Similarly, if the leak is coming from the base of the cistern, wiggle it to see if it has come loose. If it is loose, open the cistern lid to locate the two screws that hold the tank to the wall.
  
  
• 5). Tighten the two screws and wiggle the cistern to test that there is no movement, and ensure it is flush.
  
  
• 6). If there is a leak from the bottom of the cistern, disconnect the water supply pipe from it, using a wrench.
  
  
• 7). Remove the two screws from the inside of the cistern using a screwdriver. Lift the cistern away form the pan to reveal a rubber gasket.
  
  
• 8). Check the rubber gasket that seals the area between the cistern and the toilet pan. If it is cracked or worn, lift out the rubber gasket and replace it with a new one.
  
  
• 9). Put the toilet back together by placing the cistern back on top of the pan and tightening the two screws that were removed. Reconnect the water supply pipe by pushing it into place and tightening the connectors with a wrench.
  
  
• 10
  
  If the leak is coming from the top of the cistern, remove the cistern lid to check if the small plastic fill tube has loosened. If so, reconnect it by pushing it back together. If it still leaks check the large round ball called a float. If it contains water, then it will need to be replaced. Unscrew the float in a counterclockwise motion and screw on a new one in a clockwise motion.
  
  
• 11
  
  If the water supply pipe has a leak, you can make a permanent repair by using a flexible push-fit repair pipe.
  
  
• 12
  
  Cut off the area of pipe that is damaged by using a pipe cutter or hacksaw.
  
  
• 13
  
  Push a suitable length of flexible push-fit repair pipe on at both ends. Make sure the connectors fit snugly and tighten with a wrench.
  
  
• 14
  
  After completing do-it-yourself toilet plumbing, turn your water supply back on and flush your toilet to ensure that it is working properly.